To increase your endurance for enduro routes, it’s important to take more frequent and effective breaks during the climb. While building stamina through training is helpful, taking strategic breaks during the route will give you a better chance of succeeding in any terrain. Remember, rest is key to success!
Taking a break to achieve success: Vertical Rock.
As you climb, remember that your legs are much more powerful than your arms. To prevent your fingers and forearms from becoming fatigued, take advantage of any available stemming opportunities on the route. While corners may be the most obvious choice, don’t overlook the potential to stem between knobs, pockets, ribs, tufas, or other rock features on a flat wall.
If you need to rest on a face climb or arête, try wrapping your instep around a crystal or edge. Rock onto that foot, then squat down onto it while allowing your other leg to dangle, keeping your body weight close to the wall. This technique can help you take a breather while giving your arms a break.
When you engage in stem or thin face climbing, it is important to remember that it can exhaust not just your fingers and forearms, but also your feet and calves. This can result in inaccurate foot placements, which can be dangerous. To take a breather, consider using your heel instead of your toe on a secure foothold. You can also alternate feet to give each one a break.
If you encounter a wall with knobs, take advantage of them to rest your fingers. Loop your pinkie or curl your thumb around a knob to take some weight off your digits. Additionally, if you come across a large, flat edge, use it as an opportunity to let your forearms recover. Rather than hanging onto the hold with your hands, rest your forearm on the shelf. These techniques can be especially helpful when climbing on overhanging rock.
Stemming becomes crucial when you’re on an overhanging rig as it puts a lot of pressure on your arms and core. You never know when even the slightest crevice or ledge can come in handy for a quick stem and shake.
In rock climbing, if the gap between two rock planes is insufficient for stemming, there’s still a technique you can use to take a break. You can try a drop-knee by twisting your body sideways and dropping your inner knee towards the ground. Use both feet to smear in the opposite direction as if you’re chimneying. With a successful drop-knee, you may even be able to rest by lowering one or both hands.